Step into the vibrant streets of 1990s Shibuya, Tokyo, and you’d find a fashion revolution in full swing. This was the birthplace of gyaru, a Japanese street style that boldly challenged convention. Far more than just a trend, gyaru was a cultural statement—a loud, glamorous, and unapologetic expression of youthful rebellion against the strict beauty standards and societal norms of the time. While its peak may have passed, its influence continues to ripple through fashion today.
What is Gyaru Fashion?
At its core, gyaru (a Japanese transliteration of the English word “gal”) is about creating a hyper-feminine, doll-like, and often sexy look. It was a direct counter-movement to the traditional ideal of pale skin, dark hair, and modest attire. Gyaru gals embraced tanned skin, bleached or brightly colored hair, and dramatic makeup. The look was defined by confidence and a desire to stand out.
Key characteristics often include:
- Bleached and Styled Hair: Big, voluminous hair, often bleached blonde, brown, or ash-toned, was a signature. Curls, extensions, and elaborate updos were common.
- Tanned Skin: Whether from tanning salons or bronzer, a sun-kissed glow was essential, directly opposing the traditional value placed on pale skin.
- Dramatic Makeup: The focus was on the eyes. Large circle lenses to create a doe-eyed effect, dramatic false eyelashes (both upper and lower), bold eyeliner, and white eyeshadow were staples.
- Bold Fashion Choices: Gyaru style embraced Western-inspired trends, featuring mini-skirts, platform boots, designer accessories, and lots of bright colors and animal prints.
The Many Faces of Gyaru: Exploring the Substyles
Gyaru isn’t a monolithic style; it evolved into numerous substyles, each with its own unique twist on the core look.
Kogal
One of the earliest and most recognizable forms, kogal blended the gyaru aesthetic with Japanese school uniforms. Girls would customize their uniforms by shortening their skirts, wearing loose socks (rumpled knee-highs), and pairing them with platform boots and designer bags. It was a playful and rebellious take on conformity.
Ganguro
Appearing in the late 1990s, Ganguro took the gyaru look to its extreme. The name translates to “black face,” referencing the deep, dark tans its followers sported. This was contrasted with brightly colored or white lipstick, white concealer used as eyeshadow and highlighter, and platinum blonde hair. The look was often adorned with face stickers, vibrant clothing, and towering platform shoes. It was arguably the most shocking and rebellious of all the substyles.
Hime Gyaru
On the opposite end of the spectrum is Hime Gyaru, or “Princess Gal.” This style is all about sweetness and opulence. It draws inspiration from European royalty, particularly the Rococo era. Hime gyaru features large, coiffed hair (often bouffants or elaborate curls), pink and pastel-colored dresses with lace and bows, and an emphasis on brand-name luxury goods. The makeup is still dramatic but leans more towards a doll-like, “cute” aesthetic rather than a sexy one.
The Evolution and Global Impact
Gyaru fashion was a product of its time—Japan’s “Lost Decade” of economic stagnation. For many young women, this flamboyant style was a way to reclaim their identity and have fun in a society facing uncertainty. It was promoted through dedicated magazines like Egg and Popteen, which created stars and set trends for followers across the country.
While the most extreme forms of gyaru began to fade in the late 2000s, its impact is undeniable. It helped popularize circle lenses, false eyelashes, and certain makeup techniques that have since become mainstream in many parts of Asia and beyond. The gyaru ethos—the freedom to radically transform one’s appearance—paved the way for countless other Japanese street styles.
Gyaru Fashion Today
Today, classic gyaru is more of a niche style, but its spirit lives on. You can see its DNA in modern streetwear and online fashion communities. The emphasis on eye-enlarging makeup, decorated nails, and hair styling has been absorbed into global beauty culture. A new wave of “Reiwa gyaru” has emerged, adapting the classic looks with a modern twist—often featuring slightly more natural makeup and current fashion trends while still holding onto the core tenets of confidence and glamour.
Gyaru fashion is a fascinating chapter in style history. It serves as a powerful reminder that fashion can be more than just clothes; it can be a tool for self-expression, a form of rebellion, and a way for a generation to make its voice heard.